Even Deeper into the Promised Land

I’m officially closing in on the last week of my time here in Jordan.  In some ways, it seems like I was just throwing my things into my suitcase.  Still, when I think about all I’ve seen and accomplished, it’s hard to believe that it’s only been 10 weeks!  But more on final impressions to come…

To take advantage of our last weeks here, we traveled across country lines last weekend, arriving in the middle of Jerusalem’s Old City by midday on Friday.  After hearing warnings of long, complicated passages from Jordan into Israel, we were prepared to spend up to 5 hours at the border.  Fortunately, this wasn’t the case, and we were quickly on our way to the Citadel Hostel, where we spent 2 nights for only $33.  I challenge anyone reading this to find a better deal.

Sawyer and Jordan getting settled in the hostel lobby

We hit the ground running and spent the afternoon exploring all 4 quarters (Muslim, Christian, Jewish, and Armenian) of the Old City, which is contained within towering walls.  The Muslim quarter was the largest and most crowded by far.  It closely resembled the parts of the Arab world that we’ve explored so far, and we were able to practice our Arabic in its shops.  The Christian and Jewish quarters are roughly the same size, followed by the tiny Armenian quarter, which is home to some of the Old City’s first residents.  The boundaries between each of the quarters are loose, which means that people of the 3 most prominent world religions are in constant contact with one another.  Considering the tight intersection of these faiths, it’s not surprising that the region faces constant conflict.  Nowhere else is home to so much history, nearly all of which holds significance for multiple groups of people.

Throngs in the Muslim Quarter

Winding through the various quarters, we walked the Via Dolorosa, which follows Jesus’ path from the time of his condemnation to his crucifixion and burial.  Along the walk, there are 14 Stations of the Cross, marking different points throughout the streets where Jesus supposedly carried the cross.  Pilgrims come from around the world to walk this route, and Jerusalem profits from it.  It may be the only city where you can, in fact, rent a cross to carry as Jesus did.  We opted out of this option, but the experience was still powerful.  It ended in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, where a throng of people waiting to kneel before Jesus’ tomb.  No sooner had we entered the space, though, when one of the brothers ushered us out to make room for the others seeking holiness.

Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher

We ended our first evening with a visit to the Western “Wailing” Wall, one of the most significant sites in the Jewish tradition.  Since it was Friday night, we arrived just in time for the first Shabbat celebrations, complete with plenty of singing and dancing.  Quite the party!

The Western Wall before Shabbat.  Men on the left, women on the right.

Day 2 was even more action-packed than the first, so I’ll try to give a quick summary here.  It began with a walking tour of the Old City, followed by a trip to the Garden Tomb, another sight where Jesus may have possibly been buried.  Experts have speculated about this site for a little over a century, which makes it much more recent that the tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  It was fascinating to see the contrast between the two tombs.  Whereas the Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodox, and Oriental Orthodox Churches share the Holy Sepulcher, the Garden Tomb traditionally means more to Protestants.  As a result, the older site was elaborately decorated and closely policed, whereas the newer one was simple and quiet.

Inside the Garden Tomb

From the Garden Tomb, we took a bus to Bethlehem, to see where Jesus was born.  Situated in the Palestinian West Bank, the birthplace is no longer a peaceful barnyard scene.  Rather, it’s a point surrounded by yet another elaborate church in the middle of a busting city.  Maybe not what you picture in church on Christmas Eve, but real and captivating all the same. 

The place where Jesus was supposedly born.  I bet it didn't look like this then!

Then, we were back to Jerusalem, where we walked along the ramparts of the Old City’s walls.  Fantastic views, a cool breeze, and the chance to imagine guards patrolling centuries in the past.  It was a great was to reflect on the day and appreciate Jerusalem’s beauty.

Walking the ramparts

On Day 3, our final day, we rode to the top of the Mount of Olives and walked down to the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his last evening praying.  In contrast with many of the biblical sites that we saw, this garden was natural and serene.  It was easy to imagine the garden, filled with olive trees and flowers, as a place for final contemplation.  Altogether, it was a fitting place to end our journey to Jerusalem and begin our travels home.

Olive trees in Gethsemane

This trip was so full that it’s difficult to capture every moment in a blog post, but I hope I’ve given everyone an idea of what we saw.  It was an incredible experience, one that left plenty of room for reflection on history and current interfaith relationships.

Sunset views of the Old City

In a little over a week, I’ll be landing in Atlanta.  As a result, this may be my last post from the Middle East, but I’ll try to wrap it all up at some point soon.  Until then, enjoy the rest of your summer, and I’ll hope to see you state-side!