To the Promised Land

After several consecutive weekends of sticking close to home, we set out on another adventure yesterday, this time to explore the heart of the Promised Land.

Instead of travelling with a Jordanian escort, as we’ve done thus far, we decided to rent two cars for our drive west.  Given my last post on Jordan’s traffic, this may not sound like the best idea.  Since weekends are unusually light, though, the guys behind the wheel (i.e. NOT me) didn’t have any problems. 

St. George Basilica in Madaba

The mosaic map in St. George

Our first stop was in the town of Madaba, about 45 minutes away from Amman.  Known for millennia as a center of tolerant interfaith coexistence, Madaba is home to a substantial portion of Jordan’s Christian population.  Here, church steeples rise alongside the minarets in the skyline.  One of the most prominent steeples sits atop the Greek Orthodox Basilica of St. George, which was our first stop. St. George’s walls are covered with mosaics and paintings depicting various biblical scenes.  Its hallmark feature is a 6^th century mosaic map of the Promised Land, which spreads across the floor near the pulpit.  Following the discovery of this map in the late 19^th century, Madaba was deemed Jordan’s “City of Mosaics,” an apt title given the abundance of this artwork throughout the town.

Learning the stories behind the rugs

We left St. George and began to stroll the streets, eventually stumbling into a shop belonging to a man with a passion for rugs.  Upon entering, we found walls covered in colorful tapestries woven by hand from sheep and goat’s hair.  After showing us some of his stock, the owner offered to take upstairs, where he stores his personal, not-for-sale collection.  Each rug had a story.  We learned the meaning behind their patterns and about the people who made them.  In the end, I made my first souvenir purchase, a beautiful Egyptian rug that will find its home in my dorm room beginning this fall.

My proud purchase!  Still trying to decide whether it will match my turquoise bedding...

From Madaba, we made our way to Mt. Nebo, the site where Moses is supposedly buried.  According to the bible, Moses arrived at Mt. Nebo after his 40 years of leading God’s people through the desert.  Finally, he looked upon the Promised Land intended for the Israelites, and he died shortly thereafter at the ripe age of 120.  Truthfully, the view from Mt. Nebo is nothing extraordinary.  In keeping with the rest of Jordan’s landscape, it’s mostly desert, so it may not have been the “land of milk and honey” that Moses expected.  Still, the history of the place made it worth a special visit.

Memorial for Moses

Looking out over the Promised Land

We made another quick stop at a different panoramic overlook before heading to the Dead Sea, where the temperature was a toasty 108.  Unlike the rest of Jordan, the area around the Dead Sea is humid because of the moisture from the water rising into the air.  As a result, our dip in the pool felt more like a bath, and it was one of the sweatier afternoons of the trip so far.  Once the sun moved lower in the sky, we waded into the water.  After repeated attempts to touch the bottom, I realized it was impossible, as the water was too buoyant.  What a bizarre sensation!  We bobbed around for a while before getting out to smooth mud from the sea’s floor onto our skin.  Because of the minerals in the water, this mud is supposed to have healing properties.  I’m not sure if I’ve felt a difference yet, but I’ll keep you updated!

Do we look any younger?

After cleaning up, we finished the day with a fantastic dinner and returned home, exhausted and slightly sun kissed.  Now, we’re making it through a tough week of final academic assignments before heading to Jerusalem in a few days.  

A relaxing trip, to be sure!

A Lesson on Amman Driving

As a native Atlantan, I thought I knew what traffic was…until I arrived in Jordan.  Driving is pretty crazy here but always entertaining.  Even though I’m not planning to rent a car any time soon, observing people in the streets has been highly entertaining.  In case anyone’s planning to visit in the near future, here are some things to look out for!

Honking:

Maybe the first thing I noticed about drivers in Amman is that they love to use their horns.  Drivers honk for any number of reasons: to say hello, to draw the attention of a pretty lady, to express frustration (sometimes these honks last up to 10 seconds), and to celebrate weddings (lots and lots of honks!).  Drivers substitute honks for turn signals, and they also honk to let someone over.  Since stop signs are by and large ignored, people may honk as they approach an intersection.  Honks work wonders at 4-way stops.  They honk to make pedestrians aware of them, and sometimes…they honk just for the hell of it.

Laws of the Road:

In short, there are very few.  There are no lane lines on the roads, which leaves organization open to interpretation.  Creating new lanes is acceptable, as is pulling along the sidewalk to pass another car.  Despite the high volume of traffic in Amman, it has about as many stop lights as a one-street town.  Somehow, I don’t think people would care to obey them.

Parking:

People park wherever they feel like it.  As with the lanes, there are no designated spaces, so pretty much anywhere is fair game.  Drivers park vertically or horizontally in front of buildings, and when space in front runs out, the sidewalk is also an acceptable choice.  As you might imagine, all of this makes leaving the parking lot a bit tricky.

Taxis: There are 3 types of taxis, and they probably make up a third of all cars in the city.

1.  The Yellow Taxis.  These can also be green.  These are the most common type of cab in Amman and the only type I’ve taken so far.  They’ll take you almost anywhere that you need to go.  Almost.  First, the driver must agree that your desired destination suits him.  If your neighborhood doesn’t sound appealing, then tough luck.

Yellow cabs also have meters, which should be turned on during the day and start at 25 cents.  If they’re not turned on, you can agree on a price before riding anywhere, or in extreme circumstances, you can ask the law-violating driver to take you to the police station.  No drive in Amman should cost more than around 3 JD at most, a rule of thumb that we sadly neglected in our very first ride (see First Impressions post).  After 10 PM, it’s a different situation, with meters starting at 35 cents but often not used at all.  If you’re planning on being out for a while, cabs can be pricier, especially if you’re American.

The ride is an experience in itself.  By custom, women always sit in the back seat, whereas men sit in the front.  Some drivers want to chat (“I bet it’s not this hot in America!”), while others sit stoically.  Several times, my drivers have pulled in front of a convenience store and told to wait while they grab a quick cup of tea of a pack of cigarettes.  This is a testament to the importance of being flexible with your time in the Middle East, as “Arab time” functions somewhat differently from our regimented American schedules.  Despite “no smoking” signs in most cabs, plenty of drivers will still whip out a cigarette (and perhaps offer you one too).  The preferred radio program varies, with blaring Arab music probably being the top choice, followed by the news (sometimes beneficial to my listening skills) and good old American pop (Justin Bieber, anyone?).  I’ve even hailed one cab that played music videos on a screen up front.  Needless to say, that ride cost a bit more.

2.   The White Taxis.  These cabs run on a set schedule, almost like a bus.  They pick people up along their route, which means that those traveling alone or in a couple may end up sitting next to a stranger.  Riskier, maybe, but a good way to meet new people?  I don’t think I’ll be trying it during this trip.

3.  The Silver Taxis.  In all honesty, I have no idea how these work, so I just avoid them altogether.  I’ve heard that they will take you longer distances, so maybe we’ll give them a shot when we visit the Dead Sea.  They seem nicer than the other 2 types, so it’s worth a try!

Walking:

Walking around all of this crazy traffic can seem intimidating, but I’ve learned that there’s actually a system.  It may seem like people will run you over, but this isn’t the case at all.  Drivers are very good about stopping for pedestrians as long as they walk assertively.  This has represented a bit of a learning curve for me, as I’m not the most assertive person, but I think I’ve finally gotten the hang of it.  With practice, I’ve learned to make my way around on these crazy streets!

20 Years and Over the Hill

Because we’ve been close to home the past few weekends, I’ve been somewhat lax with my blog.  But just because we’ve stuck around Amman doesn’t mean that there isn’t anything new to report!

In fact, it’s been a pretty eventful couple of weeks, as I celebrated my first international birthday when I turned 20 on the 11^th.  I wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of a celebration, but between the thoughtful gestures and wishes from friends and family both here and at home, it was a joyful day!

 Since my birthday falls in the middle of the summer, I’ve always had the privilege of relaxing on that day.  I’ve spent birthdays at the beach, the pool, and around Atlanta, but I had never been in class until this year.  Fortunately, we’ve been doing some fun review games to prepare for our upcoming midterm exam, so it was a relatively positive experience.  My afternoon was true to my everyday routine here—gym, homework, and rest—but what followed made for one of the most memorable birthdays to date.

Getting ready to eat with host brother Andrew (age 7)

When I arrived home, the sweet smell of cake immediately brought a smile to my face.  My host mom, Muneira, had baked me a delicious marble pound cake.  This was beyond anything I had expected, and I was very grateful for her thoughtfulness.  Together with my Davidson friends and my extended host family, I enjoyed a great birthday dinner, listened to the birthday song in both English and Arabic, and blew out my candle (I guess I’m getting too old to have one for each year now—wouldn’t want to burn down the house!). 

Slicing the first piece with friend Devin and host brothers Danny (age 28) and Matthew (age 1 1/2)

Later that night, my host brother took Devin, Sawyer, and me to one of his favorite restaurants in town.  As we were talking, everyone in the place suddenly erupted in a “Happy Birthday” chorus.  I was happy but confused, until I realized that it was also the bartender’s birthday.  Oh well!  Happy birthday to us!

Mama Muneira and Matthew.  He's clearly the favorite grandchild.

Thanks to Skype, I was also fortunate enough to talk to both of my parents on my birthday and reflect on my experiences here so far.  July 11^th also marked the halfway point between my departure from Atlanta and my departure from Amman in another 5 weeks, meaning that I’m now over the hill in my time here. 

I intentionally came into this experience with as few expectations as possible, not wanting to feel too anxious or expectant.  Still, I think that if I had recorded some of my predictions, they would have closely resembled the reality of my experience so far.  I am always learning here, as much on the street as I am in class.  Not every day is extraordinary, but I’m experiencing a typical (although privileged) lifestyle in the Middle East, which I believe is more valuable than any action-packed stint of sightseeing.  I have had some exceptional opportunities to see new things and engage in conversations with those who call Jordan home.  The role of religion in society, the bustling yet intentional pace of life, and the complex nature of the Arabic language continue to strike me as some of the most central influences on my life here.  I know that my experience has broadened my understanding of this region and has given me a new sense of confidence.  To have adjusted and be navigating my way around this region has been challenging, but I know that it will prepare me for a range of future tests.

Rocks and Sand and Camels...Oh my!

Another weekend journey down the Desert Highway delivered a group of about 40 Qasid students and a few staff members at Petra’s doorstep last Thursday night.  Originally, our Davidson group had planned to postpone our visit Petra and Wadi Rum, but then Qasid organized a trip that was too good a deal to refuse.  It was nice to relax and let those with more experience plan our 2-night adventure through a couple of Jordan’s most popular sites.

We arrived in Petra uneventfully, and the next morning, we were thrilled to discover that the park entrance was only a short walk from our hotel.  Ordinarily, entrance to Petra costs 50 JD per person, unless you are Jordanian, in which case it is only 1.  Fortunately, our group rate permitted us to visit at a fraction of the regular tourist rate.  Also included in our visit was a guided tour along many of Petra’s most prominent structures, given by a man who helped excavate many of the ruins over 30 years ago.

 Beautiful red rock at Petra

Constructed beginning as early as 1550 BC, Petra was home to several groups of people, including the Nabateans and the Romans.  All of the structures in Petra were carved into the red sandstone using only iron tools (i.e. chisels and hammers).  Its hallmark façade, the Treasury (Al Khazneh) is a towering structure carved into the mountains.  Given the elaborate and expansive nature of the homes, tombs, and governmental buildings that we saw, I can honestly say that Petra is one of the most incredible sights I’ve encountered in my travel experiences. 

The common Nabateans' tombs

Petra's Ampitheater

 

Al Khazneh

About 800 steps later, we arrived at Petra’s highest point, a mountaintop that boasts some of the best views in the area and is home to the city’s monastery (Al Dier).  Our hike lasted about 6 hours total but was rewarding, as it afforded us a glimpse into one of the world’s most ancient, powerful societies. 

Al Dier

Next stop, Wadi Rum.  We drove about 2 hours further into the desert and were greeted by our gracious hosts, all members of the same Bedouin family who lead tours through the Jordanian desert.  To begin our trip, we boarded open-air Jeeps that would take us into the heart of the wadi.  In Arabic, “wadi” means valley, and “rum” means elevated.  Thus Wadi Rum is "The Valley of the Moon."  As we drove deeper into the area, we understood the reasoning behind its name.  Reddish-pink sand covers the ground, and towering boulders rise from every side.  After about 20 minutes of driving, we stopped at a particularly scenic point, just in time to watch the sun set behind the mountains.  After a day full of wonder, I felt overwhelmed with gratitude for my position among friends and nature.  I could never have predicted this opportunity a year ago, and I am continuously grateful to be here.

Sunset at Wadi Rum

Eventually, the last rays dropped below the horizon (on to wake many of my American friends and family), and we continued to our campsite.  Although there were enough tents to accommodate at least 50 people, most of us preferred to sleep in the open air, so we positioned our mattresses on the sand.  A short time later, dinner was ready.  As you might have guessed, ovens are scarce in the desert, so our hosts had instead buried loads of chicken and vegetables in a barrel under the sand.  Hours under the hot sun cooked our meal to perfection, and my mouth watered instantly as a watched the food emerge from the sand.  Following dinner, we listened to the Bedouins’ songs and stories, and we even took a night hike to a nearby mountain, where we sat to admire the stars.

Unburying our dinner

By the time I went to sleep, I was exhausted, but I was fortunate enough to wake around 4 AM to the sound of the day’s first prayer.  One of the Bedouin men had risen to remember God’s presence.  In a large city like Amman, this early prayer is a given daily occurrence, but I was surprised to hear it in such a remote place.  Echoing off of the mountains, it was a beautiful offering of thanks and praise.

We rose early the next morning and boarded the Jeeps again for a 4-hour tour of the desert’s most interesting spots.  Alas, my camera died before this portion of our journey, but it was a great way to end our trip—with more climbing atop high boulders, running down towering sand dunes, and exploring ancient canyons.  A true adventure!

Before returning to Amman, we enjoyed a final offering of “Southern hospitality,” a chance to eat a meal in the home of the Bedouins who had hosted us.  Although there were many of us, they welcomed us with typical Jordanian warmth and sent us on our way with happy stomachs.

I’m planning to stay close to Amman for the next several weekends but hope to travel some more fairly soon.  With an experience as memorable as this one, I feel enthusiastic about the weeks to come.

Finally, I got to pet a camel!  I was obviously very excited.