As a native Atlantan, I thought I knew what traffic was…until
I arrived in Jordan. Driving is
pretty crazy here but always entertaining. Even though I’m not planning to rent a car any time soon,
observing people in the streets has been highly entertaining. In case anyone’s planning to visit in
the near future, here are some things to look out for!
Honking:
Maybe the first thing I noticed about drivers in Amman is
that they love to use their horns.
Drivers honk for any number of reasons: to say hello, to draw the
attention of a pretty lady, to express frustration (sometimes these honks last
up to 10 seconds), and to celebrate weddings (lots and lots of honks!). Drivers substitute honks for turn signals,
and they also honk to let someone over.
Since stop signs are by and large ignored, people may honk as they
approach an intersection. Honks
work wonders at 4-way stops. They
honk to make pedestrians aware of them, and sometimes…they honk just for the
hell of it.
Laws of the Road:
In short, there are very few. There are no lane lines on the roads, which leaves
organization open to interpretation.
Creating new lanes is acceptable, as is pulling along the sidewalk to
pass another car. Despite the high
volume of traffic in Amman, it has about as many stop lights as a one-street
town. Somehow, I don’t think
people would care to obey them.
Parking:
People park wherever they feel like it. As with the lanes, there are no
designated spaces, so pretty much anywhere is fair game. Drivers park vertically or horizontally
in front of buildings, and when space in front runs out, the sidewalk is also
an acceptable choice. As you might
imagine, all of this makes leaving the parking lot a bit tricky.
Taxis: There are
3 types of taxis, and they probably make up a third of all cars in the city.
1. The Yellow
Taxis. These can also be
green. These are the most common
type of cab in Amman and the only type I’ve taken so far. They’ll take you almost anywhere that
you need to go. Almost. First, the driver must agree that your desired destination
suits him. If your neighborhood
doesn’t sound appealing, then tough luck.
Yellow cabs also have meters, which should be turned on
during the day and start at 25 cents.
If they’re not turned on, you can agree on a price before riding
anywhere, or in extreme circumstances, you can ask the law-violating driver to
take you to the police station. No
drive in Amman should cost more than around 3 JD at most, a rule of thumb that
we sadly neglected in our very first ride (see First Impressions post). After 10 PM, it’s a different
situation, with meters starting at 35 cents but often not used at all. If you’re planning on being out for a
while, cabs can be pricier, especially if you’re American.
The ride is an experience in itself. By custom, women always sit in the back
seat, whereas men sit in the front.
Some drivers want to chat (“I bet it’s not this hot in America!”), while
others sit stoically. Several
times, my drivers have pulled in front of a convenience store and told to wait
while they grab a quick cup of tea of a pack of cigarettes. This is a testament to the importance
of being flexible with your time in the Middle East, as “Arab time” functions
somewhat differently from our regimented American schedules. Despite “no smoking” signs in most
cabs, plenty of drivers will still whip out a cigarette (and perhaps offer you
one too). The preferred radio
program varies, with blaring Arab music probably being the top choice, followed
by the news (sometimes beneficial to my listening skills) and good old American
pop (Justin Bieber, anyone?). I’ve
even hailed one cab that played music videos on a screen up front. Needless to say, that ride cost a bit
more.
2. The White Taxis. These cabs run on a set schedule,
almost like a bus. They pick
people up along their route, which means that those traveling alone or in a
couple may end up sitting next to a stranger. Riskier, maybe, but a good way to meet new people? I don’t think I’ll be trying it during
this trip.
3. The Silver
Taxis. In all honesty, I have no
idea how these work, so I just avoid them altogether. I’ve heard that they will take you longer distances, so
maybe we’ll give them a shot when we visit the Dead Sea. They seem nicer than the other 2 types,
so it’s worth a try!
Walking:
Walking around all of this crazy traffic can seem
intimidating, but I’ve learned that there’s actually a system. It may seem like people will run you
over, but this isn’t the case at all.
Drivers are very good about stopping for pedestrians as long as they
walk assertively. This has
represented a bit of a learning curve for me, as I’m not the most assertive
person, but I think I’ve finally gotten the hang of it. With practice, I’ve learned to make my
way around on these crazy streets!
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