Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Rocks and Sand and Camels...Oh my!


Another weekend journey down the Desert Highway delivered a group of about 40 Qasid students and a few staff members at Petra’s doorstep last Thursday night.  Originally, our Davidson group had planned to postpone our visit Petra and Wadi Rum, but then Qasid organized a trip that was too good a deal to refuse.  It was nice to relax and let those with more experience plan our 2-night adventure through a couple of Jordan’s most popular sites.

We arrived in Petra uneventfully, and the next morning, we were thrilled to discover that the park entrance was only a short walk from our hotel.  Ordinarily, entrance to Petra costs 50 JD per person, unless you are Jordanian, in which case it is only 1.  Fortunately, our group rate permitted us to visit at a fraction of the regular tourist rate.  Also included in our visit was a guided tour along many of Petra’s most prominent structures, given by a man who helped excavate many of the ruins over 30 years ago.

 Beautiful red rock at Petra

Constructed beginning as early as 1550 BC, Petra was home to several groups of people, including the Nabateans and the Romans.  All of the structures in Petra were carved into the red sandstone using only iron tools (i.e. chisels and hammers).  Its hallmark façade, the Treasury (Al Khazneh) is a towering structure carved into the mountains.  Given the elaborate and expansive nature of the homes, tombs, and governmental buildings that we saw, I can honestly say that Petra is one of the most incredible sights I’ve encountered in my travel experiences. 

The common Nabateans' tombs

Petra's Ampitheater

 
Al Khazneh

About 800 steps later, we arrived at Petra’s highest point, a mountaintop that boasts some of the best views in the area and is home to the city’s monastery (Al Dier).  Our hike lasted about 6 hours total but was rewarding, as it afforded us a glimpse into one of the world’s most ancient, powerful societies. 

Al Dier

Next stop, Wadi Rum.  We drove about 2 hours further into the desert and were greeted by our gracious hosts, all members of the same Bedouin family who lead tours through the Jordanian desert.  To begin our trip, we boarded open-air Jeeps that would take us into the heart of the wadi.  In Arabic, “wadi” means valley, and “rum” means elevated.  Thus Wadi Rum is "The Valley of the Moon."  As we drove deeper into the area, we understood the reasoning behind its name.  Reddish-pink sand covers the ground, and towering boulders rise from every side.  After about 20 minutes of driving, we stopped at a particularly scenic point, just in time to watch the sun set behind the mountains.  After a day full of wonder, I felt overwhelmed with gratitude for my position among friends and nature.  I could never have predicted this opportunity a year ago, and I am continuously grateful to be here.

Sunset at Wadi Rum

Eventually, the last rays dropped below the horizon (on to wake many of my American friends and family), and we continued to our campsite.  Although there were enough tents to accommodate at least 50 people, most of us preferred to sleep in the open air, so we positioned our mattresses on the sand.  A short time later, dinner was ready.  As you might have guessed, ovens are scarce in the desert, so our hosts had instead buried loads of chicken and vegetables in a barrel under the sand.  Hours under the hot sun cooked our meal to perfection, and my mouth watered instantly as a watched the food emerge from the sand.  Following dinner, we listened to the Bedouins’ songs and stories, and we even took a night hike to a nearby mountain, where we sat to admire the stars.

Unburying our dinner

By the time I went to sleep, I was exhausted, but I was fortunate enough to wake around 4 AM to the sound of the day’s first prayer.  One of the Bedouin men had risen to remember God’s presence.  In a large city like Amman, this early prayer is a given daily occurrence, but I was surprised to hear it in such a remote place.  Echoing off of the mountains, it was a beautiful offering of thanks and praise.

We rose early the next morning and boarded the Jeeps again for a 4-hour tour of the desert’s most interesting spots.  Alas, my camera died before this portion of our journey, but it was a great way to end our trip—with more climbing atop high boulders, running down towering sand dunes, and exploring ancient canyons.  A true adventure!

Before returning to Amman, we enjoyed a final offering of “Southern hospitality,” a chance to eat a meal in the home of the Bedouins who had hosted us.  Although there were many of us, they welcomed us with typical Jordanian warmth and sent us on our way with happy stomachs.

I’m planning to stay close to Amman for the next several weekends but hope to travel some more fairly soon.  With an experience as memorable as this one, I feel enthusiastic about the weeks to come.

Finally, I got to pet a camel!  I was obviously very excited.

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